Brake cooling

TRAKCAR · #1 03-10-2011, 09:56 AM

Maybe I have more info about this, Ican start with fender flap thingies:

FTS · #2 03-10-2011, 03:20 PM

Your expectation is to have the flaps create a vacuum around the wheel, so the hot air inside to dissipate faster through the wheel? I think that might work, are you getting much fade with the stock setup?

Have you looked at all to how much plumbing there is behind the front bumper? Would it not be possible to get some NACA ducts routed from the front to the brakes?

TRAKCAR · #3 03-10-2011, 04:11 PM

Yes, I am also looking at CUP splitter. It might reduce air gooing to scoops. Not sure what is possible, but we are looking at what CUP cars are doiing I guess.

Looking tto try diufferent pads and front rotors as well. Looking for less $ per session. Pagid R29 are lasting, but they feel like crap as soon as they are worn 50%.

stujelly · #4 09-11-2011, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAKCAR

Yes, I am also looking at CUP splitter. It might reduce air gooing to scoops. Not sure what is possible, but we are looking at what CUP cars are doiing I guess.

Looking tto try diufferent pads and front rotors as well. Looking for less $ per session. Pagid R29 are lasting, but they feel like crap as soon as they are worn 50%.

Did you do a thread on aftermarket ducting to cool your front brakes. I must be retarded I can't find it.

FTS · #5 03-10-2011, 04:36 PM

I am not sure why there aren't more people trying the Pagid Greys, they seem like they much better friction while cold and at 600 deg Celsius and Pagid claims them to be endurance oriented.

FTS · #6 03-13-2011, 12:20 AM

As I was working on the car changing pads and so forth, I took a more detail look at the brake cooling. There are two cooling channels (or air guides) on each corner. At the front, the higher up channel is taking air from the inside front wheel fender opening, which is actually fed from the front radiator openings and probably the some of the excess air is routed there. If this is true, then there must be enough room for a 2-3" NACA duct from the side of the front radiators.

Very similar arrangement in the rear as well. There is an opening at the bottom towards 2/3rd from the middle that channels additional air into the rear rotors, in addition to the plastic air guides mounted in front of the rear tires. I am sure a at least 2" NACA duct would fit in there easily, but since the air guide is routed fairly efficiently from the looks of it, I am not sure how much more improvement a NACA duct would make there.

TRAKCAR · #7 09-12-2011, 08:23 AM

I never got under the car to take picture.
Here are the 2 pictures from the front and side, but Orbit tell me there are als NACA ducts under tha car that take in air from the bottomk and pipe it to the rotors where normally the AWD system goes on a Turbo and I added Turbo S scoops that are lightly larger and need a little adjusting to fit.

I think I did not need it with the PFC pads and rotors, but where we drive you can never have too much cooling.

Hope to see you at Sebring this winter!

FTS · #8 09-12-2011, 09:18 AM

That looks like a good solution, although I am not having cooling issues just yet. Is that 1" or 2" pipe? Part of the problem that continued for me even after the installation of the NACA ducts on the Cayman was I could only direct the air onto the inner rotor and not into it or into the caliper, that created more pronounced temp differences between inner and outer rotors, which in turn, created moderate differences in inner and outer pad wear; however, I did not have any brake issues after the installation, especially with PFC rotors.

TRAKCAR · #9 09-12-2011, 09:39 AM

It is a 2" pipe and I don't know what comes from the bottom and where it is aimed at near the rotor. I did not even remember to look at the brake ducts when Randy changed my brake pads during Mancation (I was paying close attention to handing beers to Randy and myself

) and orbit serviced the car when I came back and told me all is OK.

The ducting is probably not needed with the PFC stuff, but I don't think it can hurt either.

The PFC stuff has such a great brake feel that the brakes have become such a non issue that I have to remember to look at the pads or anything else. The Pagids felt so crappy I was looiking at the pads every other session after 4 days on track. :-)

FTS · #10 09-12-2011, 02:42 PM

Can't have a better endorsement than that I think

Pad beveling is still happening though, right? As I think that is partly due to caliper piston design and not pad or rotor dependent.

TRAKCAR · #11 09-12-2011, 02:50 PM

Minimal tapering; Not enough for me to bother with flipping the pads.
This was the worst tapered front pad after 10 (Non Sebring) days, used VS new and the rears don't taper at all:

FTS · #12 09-13-2011, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAKCAR

Minimal tapering; Not enough for me to bother with flipping the pads.
This was the worst tapered front pad after 10 (Non Sebring) days, used VS new and the rears don't taper at all:

Great comparative photos, thank you Peter.

BlkGT3 · #13 09-13-2011, 09:26 AM

It has to be the PFC design/compounds as when I was running Hawk DTC70 on my M3 after 3 days they would be tapered badly and the pedal would be 1/2 way to floor. Switched to PFC 01 and they wear longer, almost no taper and pedal stays higher.

Peter

stujelly · #14 09-12-2011, 09:25 PM

great info as always. I am ordering PFC this week. Looking to try those before birmingham and road atlanta in november

TRAKCAR · #15 09-13-2011, 09:56 AM

Yes, same here. Still running DTC 70 on my Mustang (4 piston Alcon front) Maybe time to switch to PFC08 there as well.