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GT2, GT3, RS and Cup Car Discussions Discussions on all topics related to all Porsche GT vehicles |
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#16
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Re: Brake cooling
Great info Peter, thanks!
I've been following your threads on rotors, pads and cooling anticipating the need to upgade my components. But I've had an "unusual" experience with my car. I switched from PCCB's this past March. I replaced with a lightly used set of '10 Cup rotors and calipers. The rotors are the same as the stock .2 GT3 steel. The front rotors had a moderate amount of cracking but nothing near the edge or interconnecting between holes. Assuming they wouldn't last long I purchased a backup pair of front rotors at the same time. Surprisingly I have not changed the original USED rotors and have about 18-20 days on them. Cracking has grown but still not at the point where I would replace. Granted I don't have the harsh Florida heat but I have run many days with ambient temps above 95f. I am baffled by this......I fully expected to have replaced the original rotors and the replacement set by now. I don't know if it's a fluke, something to do with the GT2 cooling or the CUP caliper. Hopefully someone will come to my defense when it comes to driving hard....... I have stopped late braking every corner, not sure that makes a difference. FWIW, I had converted my Cayman to GT3 rotors and calipers and would go through stock drilled rotors in less than 10 days with RS19 pads. I switched to AP and they've held up for 1yr and half. Although my wife drives it mostly now. I ran RS19's most of this year and experience a lot of tapering. I flip them often. I've just switched to RS14 and will be watching the tapering. I will likely be trying some PFC 08s thanks to your feedback. |
#17
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Re: Brake cooling
I suspected as much and don't think it's a fluke, same here but glad you are confiming it.
Most drivers are rather safe then sorry and replace them earlyish. I have 2 sets of OEM fronts that I wanted both to run longer, but PFC insisted I try their pads with threir rotors, so now I have 2 sets of front OEM rotors with 15 days on them, not knowing how much longer they would have lasted. My guess is 20 days until I fully creack them, knowing I have a backup set with me. I fully cracked many rotors in my Mustang, I see no danger in it. Plus they usually crack during cool down. I replaced the first OEM set, so I had that set as backup when I put new ones on the front and then I got the PFC rotors a bit earlier then planned, so now I have 2 sets of front backup rotors. The plan is to run PFC until the crack (I mean completely) and then do the same with the worst set of OEM fronts. Then I know how quickly, if at all the PFC rotors will pay off. I do like non-driller rotors better because the feel the same weather you blow out the holes or not plus I don't worry so much about them. The holes cracking further just makes me a bit less confident that a solid rotor that has hairline cracks everywhere. I never ran 19's so don't know, but I am very impressed with the minimal tapering of the pads, just due to pads!
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Peter National PCA Instructor. Pics and youtubes ==> Daily driver '10RS white/gold. White OEM RS roll bar, red schroth seat belts, CUP LSD, lip and Gurney, Sharky, V1, K40 laser blocker. Sold '07GT3 white |
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